THE STORY OF TWO FAMILIES: CHAMPAGNE DIRECT IN NEW ZEALAND AND JEAN-MARC VIGREUX-FRÈRE IN FRANCE
Welcome to the story of our business and how we came to represent Jean-Marc Vigreux-Frère champagne in New Zealand.
It is now a story 25 years old, a story of two families… one French and one from this long white clouded land. We’ve grown our businesses together despite the distance between us. We love the Vigreux-Frère family. They are our friends, our partners and our heritage.
This wonderful family live within a small village in the heart of champagne appellation area called Cauroy-Lès-Hermonville. Here, champagne is produced under strict regulations which uphold its authenticity, quality and style. There is only one ‘champagne’ and this precious word is used to tell the story of grapes grown within a precisely delimited region which has that special combination of harsh climate and exceptional soil. Champagne’s unique flavour is derived from these grapes which are blended together from…
Pinot Noir – with a powerful red berry nose and redcurrant taste
Pinot Meunier – scents of red fruits and citrus
Chardonnay – contributing freshness and elegance
Jean-Marc and Nadine Vigreux-Frère’s generation have produced grapes on the family vineyard since 1981, supplying their juice on contract to the large champagne houses, or Grande Marques. In 1986 they started adding value to their crop by selling some as the finished product, and by 1995, all production from this French family was then being sold directly by them as their own champagne.
In France, just as in New Zealand, some of the best wines are produced by the smaller vineyards that customers have discovered themselves or heard of by word of mouth from a friend or business contact. Because of their size, small producers seldom venture beyond their own local market, let alone export to distant countries. Lucky for us, our French family trust us to represent their brand and their own story, as part of our story.
JEAN-MARC AND NADINE VIGREUX-FRÈRE’S GENERATION HAVE PRODUCED GRAPES ON THE FAMILY VINEYARD SINCE 1981
Terroir
Soils and climate help to make champagne unique. Limestone over chalk sub soils provide the vines with minerals and nutrition. Moisture is preserved in the soil yet excess water can drain away, and heat from the sun is stored and transferred to the roots. An average year round temperature of 10 degrees (9 degrees is the minimum to ripen) means the vines have to adapt to the dangers of frost in spring and poor weather during flowering, but these harsh conditions yield grapes of real quality. Jean-Marc’s vines are spread in small clusters of rows in various locations around the region. This is their risk management strategy to avoid damage from a freak hailstorm or frost.
Cultivation
Cultivating the vines is very labour intensive and requires skill and experience. Pruning is a particularly difficult operation and is governed by the rules which limit the yield of grapes. Fertilising is important, but unlike New Zealand, irrigation is not permitted at all.
Towards the end of September (about 100 days after the flowering of the vine) the vendange (harvest) commences. Picking is carried out by hand only, with each bunch being carefully examined. A maximum yield per hectare is fixed by regulation, making champagne grapes so special. It is difficult to overstate the fact that the quality of the champagne is firmly established by the grower in the vineyard. The winemaker subsequently reveals this quality in the bottle.
Production
The grapes are transported with great care to the press 3 kms away at Comicy. This is a state-of –the-art facility with very high quality pressing equipment, made available to smaller growers through its co-operative network.
The juice is then delivered to a large Center Vinicole de la Champagne cooperative at Chouilly near Epernay. Specially accredited scientists then assist the winemakers in producing the champagne within strict quality procedures.
First fermentation occurs in vats where the grape juice turns into still wine. Consistency in style and yearly harvests is achieved by the traditional art of blending, where wines from black and white grapes are carefully assembled together to make the cuvee. A little cane sugar and yeast is then added before it is bottled. Bubbles form during secondary fermentation in the bottle for 24 months. Riddling and disgorging is practiced to clarify the wine and remove the residual solids, before a special dosage of wine and sugar is added to replace the amount lost. The sugar content is varied according to the type of wine desired – more sugar is added for the Demi-Sec Dessert Champagne, for example.
The champagne is then delivered to the Vigreux-Frère family and shipped in a refrigerated container all the way across the sea to us here in New Zealand.